Saturday, September 19, 2009

Her Home is Her Castle

Here it is Saturday, and we can hardly believe the way time has flown by with Trevor and Karina! Though it was a sort of lazy day, we headed out for brunch and a castle tour ... and what a pleasant (an almost unimaginable) surprise!

After a lovely brunch at the stables for Hever Castle that has been converted to a restaurant, hotel and golf course, we drove around to visit the castle grounds. It could not have been a nicer day -- too nice for the jeans and sweaters we were wearing and quickly shed. Hever Castle was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII's second wife -- the one he was required to break with the Catholic Church over and had to divorce Catherine of Aragon of Spain. Hever Castle became the home of Anne of Cleves, the wife after Jane Seymour, when she was required to admit to having been previously married to Henry so that their marriage could be annulled and Henry could marry Catherine Howard. Anne of Cleves was essentially imprisoned here in this castle in Kent, and if I had to be in prison, I would choose here!
The grounds were absolutely stunning and there were acres of gardens and a lake for rowing. The mind could not help but shift to another time and envision people in period dress walking along the colonnade or in the Italian gardens. Every sort of flower and plant imaginable, and grottos and water events and fountains and sculptures ... reminded me some of the gardens of Castle Drum in Scotland, , including the huge enclosed rose gardens, but this was, as you can imagine, on a much grander scale. I will continue to bring in garden photos while I talk a bit about touring the castle.

We crossed the moat, complete with a HUGE koi -- Trevor called it; I would have said carp because, though the color of a koi or goldfish, it was definitely a carp! There were ducks and swans swimming and walking all over and sings everywhere asking people not to feed them, and of course, everyone was. Jeff went to take a couple of photos of the swan and the ducks came right up and stood on his feet and looked straight up at him expecting food, and when not gratified, huffed away in high dudgeon. Many families there enjoying the grounds and the atmosphere. There was even a huge white wedding tent, complete with red carpet set up for a reception later in the day.
Into the small courtyard that was paved in stone and where many of the multi-paned leaded glass windows looked out on, especially from the second floor (American; first floor, British!). It turns out that John Astor had bought the castle when it was up for sale, having deemed the US no longer civilized enough to live in, and so you were on a sort of schizophrenic tour with some rooms being finished in the Tudor period and others in the early 20th century style of the Astors. I had rented one of the audio tour handsets, and though Trevor and Jeff enjoyed my commentary on things they were seeing, they had declined. I must admit that there were few places in the castle that were roped off as private. The wood-working was beyond exquisite. Jeff was in near mourning as cameras were not allowed and you could just see him itching to take photos. The ceilings, when not carved wood, were ornate plaster, many having the Tudor rose as the theme. Saw the bed that the Bolelyn family had built especially for Henry's visit and many lovely pieces of hand-embroidered work from the period.

In the great hall, which ran the entire width of the building at 100 feet (and is considered small by comparison to many other castles) they had a series of displays, including mannequins of Henry and all of his wives. I must admit that the costumes were just beautiful, though I could not imagine walking around in the humidity and heat of the day in all that weight of fabric, to say nothing of jewels! We walked up spiral stairs that were made of stone and just about hip wide on me, so I had a hard time imagining how they were traversed in those wide gowns! Karina is still a little lame form a recent surgery, so stairs were out for her, and I must admit that if one had a movement liability, there was no way that you could really see the upper floors of the castle. There were a number of priest holes, special compartments where Catholic priests would hide from Henry's officials as well as private tiny small but incredibly ornate chapels with barely enough room for the priest and 2 communicants though exquisitely carved and ornate.

Back outside and a wander through the gardens after a cold drink, down to the lake. We were all somewhat over-heated and a little fatigued, so headed back to the house for cooling off, rest and revitalization. We will shortly head out to a pub for dinner ... nothing fancy, but quite hearty, and soak up some of the English pub culture.
I must say that there is almost any sort of cuisine that one could want here ... Thai at the pub closest, Indian take out and Trevor says that whatever "flavor" we want, we are sure to be close to. This in a village just slightly smaller than Fredonia!
It is pretty doggoned amazing to me to be riding past fields with huge oak trees in them, styles and fences, and through the trees on the edge to catch sight of a Tudor house. Cottages abound here, and tomorrow morning I will get Jeff to talk up to the top of the lane to photograph the cottages there. They are very dear, but simply lovely. It is great to be among people who appreciate and save as much of their historical heritage as they can. Not that there aren't problems here -- I think, after hearing Trevor go on about local councils and all, that perhaps they truly have the corner on bureaucracy! Truly!!
Well, the gents are ready to head out the door and I haven't so much as combed my hair -- will scare the locals, for sure. Must sign off, but will be back tomorrow.
Off, with love ...

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